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轻松驾驭法式风情款式

  • Dec 19, 2024
  • 公司新闻

近日,街头拍卖Dakota Johnson“姐姐”的几套皮草服饰可以说长在了很多人的审美中。她的三种风格搭配黑咖啡复古皮草,直接证明了这件衣服是如何完美地搭配在一起的。

其实,“大美”每年到冬天都会成为“皮草美人”,各种不同长度和款式的皮草穿遍全身,再配上随意的妆容,轻松驾驭法式风情,不值一提。

这位时尚偶像的皮草将我们带回到今年早些时候的暴民妻子潮流。这种风格直译就是“帮哥老婆”的穿衣风格,呈现出一种整体气场开阔、孤傲的美丽大气,散发出霸道女性特有的危险魅力。

皮草是这种风格不可或缺的加分项。Kendall、Kylie、Hailey Bieber、Dua Lipa等时尚人士都有上半身,搭配有比例感的皮草大衣营造出个性气场和奢华的视觉。既传达出一种力量感,又有一种不羁的酷,将大女人气质完美呈现。

当然,我们也可以在节目中找到配套的服装。例如,在圣罗兰(Saint Laurent) 2024年秋冬时装秀上,创意总监安东尼·瓦卡雷洛(Anthony Vaccarello)将标志性的深色融入了他的女性气质单品中,并与华丽的皮草搭配,展现出一种尖锐而优雅的女性气质。

还有俄罗斯皮草品牌NEREJA,通过高耸的肩部设计呈现出独特的高冷感。

但事实上,包括COCO在内的很多人在购买皮草时都会考虑一个实际问题——皮草生产充满争议。因为在毛皮领域,为了保证毛皮的光泽度,据说很多动物皮毛都是通过活体剥皮动物获得的,这是非常不人道的残忍事件。

今天,近40个动物保护组织正在共同努力结束商业皮草养殖,20多个国家已经通过了动物皮草禁令。

虽然大家都很反感这种不人道的拿皮草的方式,但是美女们还是逃不过对皮草的热爱,于是环保皮草诞生了,各大品牌都开始使用这种新材料,而越来越多的文章推荐人造皮草也顺理成节,似乎在这个问题上,人造环保皮草比天然皮草要好。但透过现象看本质,谁才是真正意义上的环保主义者?

目前,人造毛皮的原料主要是人造革、腈纶、氨纶等化合物,这些化合物容易染色,使毛皮的颜色更加丰富多彩,形状也更加多变。你不必担心质地,因为今天的人造毛皮甚至模仿动物的质地。

但也正因为如此,通过化学合成创造的人造环保皮草,不仅在生产过程中消耗大量的石油,而且还会排放有毒气体和废弃物污染水源,据说在整个生产过程中,人造皮草产生的碳排放量比天然皮草高出17%左右。废水和不可降解的有害成分最终被浮游生物吸收,并通过食物链到达人们的餐桌。这时,有害物质积累到最大,却被人吃掉了。

同时,由于人造皮草的价格和款式低廉,很多人过了几个季节就不穿了,把它放在盒子的底部,甚至扔掉。特别是比利时肯特郡的有机废物系统实验室(Organic Waste Systems Laboratory)做过实验,最终得出结论:在废物分类中,人造毛皮相当于塑料废物,需要数百年才能变成半分解。

国际皮草贸易联合会(IFTF)的标准和可持续性负责人保罗·斯托克all也告诉《南华早报》:“人造皮草在环境和可持续性方面没有道德优势,它们是从不可持续的石油产品中提炼出来的,在制造和废物处理过程中会带来很多长期污染。”然而,真正的皮毛可以保存很长时间,经过长时间的改进,无毒的鞣制后,很容易降解。”(资料来源:中国皮革协会

随着复古风的持续流行,越来越多的时尚偶像将目光投向了中世纪皮草。古代毛皮属于天然毛皮,毛皮包括狐皮、貂皮、浣熊毛......它的廓形和现代流行的皮草并不是很像,而易梦玲表演过很多古代皮草,每一套都是复古女演员的模样。

还有《欲望都市》里Carrie的经典皮草,大翻领设计、略显耸肩的垫肩和略宽的袖子......这些元素将伴随我们一生。


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